CRITICS LOG: Capitancillo Islet, Alegre

We got suited up at the resort's dive center, Aqua Sports, at
Fisherman's Cove. Destination was Capitancillo Islet, a lighthouse
island whom the locals shrouded with legend and stories whose plots
vary with the times. It was left unfinished as a Spanish outpost in
the 1800s and finished by the Americans in the 1900s. The Japanese
took over soon after they took over the rest of the country and the
lighthouse acquired its various nuances in architecture.
It took fifty (50) minutes on an outrigger boat to get there. Portside
were views of the beach houses owned by well-endowed families.
Lhuiller's was the modern red house. Structures along the coast are
forced to build down the hillside. Imagine the island like a
mushroom head stuck on the sea; there would be stony outcrops jutting
out onto sandy patches every so often. Anyone who wants to build frst
has to level the stone and hug the slope. This characteristic gives
Alegre its inimitable terrain where one follows patchworked stone
walkways winding to and from one's cabanas (duplex huts) and the other
amenities in the resort.
The private beach houses trickle to lush coastal foliage with a
smattering of nipa huts while starboard, there's nothing but endless
blue water. Our boat (Kanaway 2) was riding against the current and
had us leaping off troughs, leaving clothes salty and sodden, and our
poor heads in a tizzy. The smell of crude was heady on the first deck
and contributed to biyahilo. That aside,all our attention became
riveted to a shiny speck of white on the horizon. Fingers were pointed
and the heavy-duty lenses taken out by the photographers for a closer
look. GM Fritz Kahler explained that this was Capitancillo Islet. From
afar, it may well have been Clark Kent's crystal palace except it's in
the tropics. The modern lighthouse (Australian-made) shone like a
palace tower and became whiter and whiter as we approached.
Unlike diving spots in Mactan, Capitancillo's most attractive asset is
its relative isolation. True, Nilusuan and other islets near it are
just as much a sea life sanctuary as this one off the coast of Bogo.
Sanctuary fees as well as landing fees are paid per head. But at
Capitancillo, you're also given the element of novelty and the visual
impact of a historical structure painted calburo white, surrounded by
white shells and corals instead of sand. The water around it is a
luminous turquoise with darker blues on the deeper end. (I later found
that the islet is surrounded by shelves of sand, that it may seem like
a short distance from shore, but the water is well over six (6) feet
deep just off the sandy shelf! I opted for a sun bath on the rocky
shore after that rude awakening. Capitancillo's rehabilitation has
been through the ongoing efforts of Alegre, the township of Bogo
(explains why there is a town seal) on the lighthouse's base
structure, and the Philippine Navy whose jurisdiction includes all
lighthouses in the archipelago. It was the latter who approached
Alegre to play a part in the islet's welfare. This has been a 2-year
project to date and while the islet's been cleaned up, huts and
grilling areas designed and made, the local fishermen got their own
pitstop too. Better care was given the sea as dynamite fishing was
stopped. Kahler says more exotic wildlife were seen to have been back;
many of whom have been absent from these waters for years. Boating
guests reported seeing manta rays, trigger fish, the dolphins at
sunset, and it may be a little more time before we see the whales again.
Lunch was a desparate effort of formality as staff dressed up plastic
chairs, laid a mantel and rolled up silverware in napkins when most of
us opted to eat with our hands anyway. The beach is always a primitive
affair for Cebuanos as we're always just about 30 minutes from shore.
When we do get the time to play in the water, don't expect us to want
to deal with kubiertos especially when served with grilled seafood.

*Soaps by gema suzara perfumery. Peppermint and oatmeal soap bars.
*Brgy. Liki, Sogod - where the bagon was sourced. 150 small medium
large woven balls used for the christmas tree.

FEATURE: Alegre Beach Resort

Written by Kristina Suñer Tabon
Word count: 1595
Once in a while one comes across a truly special place. One where
happy memories are always evoked. It's an emotional connection that
may not necessarily be a boon to the establishment as the bar is set
high for the repeat visits. Alegre Beach Resort in Sogod, Cebu, is
such a place. I spent a weekend in the seven-hectare resort as an
impressionable teenager where everything from the custom soap bars,
the local flora, the inexhaustible breakfast, and the endless fun
that I had with family and friends completely enthralled me.
My subsequent visits were never replicas of that first time although
they were as enjoyable. Sitting at the porch to my cabana with a view
of the blue sea, birds chirping in the background, waves crashing on
the shore, while closer by one hears the rustle of thousands of leaves
from the shrubs and trees planted around the cabanas. Despite being a
duplex type where two rooms are connected by a door and may be
occupied by a big family or two separate guests, the clever shrubbery
lends your room a very special exclusivity. You have your own entry
through a raised porch and sliding doors welcome you into a room and
an ample bath and closet area. As a teenager, that bath defined my
concept of a "comfort room," and I spent a considerable amount of
time in there. There are lots to do in Alegre. The resort is seventy-
five (75) kilometers away from Mactan Island where the international
airport is located. Aside from three (3) natural private coves, white
sand, and spectacular diving destinations, they have a lovely swimming
pool and interminable lush gardens of local flora. This last factor
is just one of the inherent charm that works in Alegre's favor. They
use everything available locally. Every species of plant in the
resort is endemic to Cebu. They even grow some of the herbs they use
for the kitchen and an orchid farm now thrives adjacent to the hotel.
These same orchids adorn every centre piece in the resort, from lobby
to dining and even on guest-room tabletops.
Getting there is another story. It is highly recommended to leave
Cebu City no later than midmorning so that you'll arrive in time for
their superb lunch buffet. An hour's drive north of Cebu province,
and you leave the city bustle behind, traversing through sinuous the
foothills along the main supply route (MSR). You'll ponder the sudden
shift from tall gray structures to mere ground-level establishments
where oddly enough, the sputtering from the tricycles and the
thundering of big buses are your only hints to the city life you left
behind. Remember to sit at the van's right side if you want to enjoy
the coastal views. What you'll see is miles and miles of azul waters
stretching into a rain-promised horizon. The panorama unfolding on
portside would be of sporadically sparse hills, lots of nipa
shrubbery, and coconut trees peppered with a variety of other tropical
species. Bananas abound. You will cross the towns of Consolacion,
Liloan, Danao, Carmen, Catmon, and then Sogod. Be sure to make last-
minute important calls and SMS before reaching Catmon as the MSR is
carved along a hillside of sedementary rock (which makes up the entire
island, actually) and will definitely cut off all communication
devices. Reception comes back on upon reaching Sogod. But who will
you want to be texting anyway? The ride is like the cleansing ritual
for Alegre. While one sits in a comfortable shuttle provided by the
resort, one leaves behind the physical and psychological noise until
one becomes aware of the present. Oh sure, your companions will be
chatting away and you'll probably have your iPods with you, but trust
me, a 2-hour bus ride with a view of the sea can be spiritual if you
let it. By this time, you and your companions will be sitting in
comfortable silence. After crossing Sogod town lines, it's only a
minute before signboards to Alegre become common. You can't miss the
chapel the huge signboard sits on. Here we see a subtle shift in flora
as small corn fields come into view as well as occasional bamboo.
Bananas are ubiquitous and so are the coconuts. The road goes winding
up a hill. The van will descend into a goat trail and you'll start
rethinking about the kind of amenities to expect from the resort, but
you'll heave a sigh of relief when the manicured lawns and the orchid
farm come into view.
At the lobby, we were met by Alegre's general manager, Fritz Kahler,
and the lovely women and men who help run the resort. Welcome drinks
were served and each of us were offered refreshing cold towels. One
whiff and nostalgic memories come back. Hints of rosemary and mint
(incidentally two of this author's favorite herbs ever) infuse more
than just the towels. Alegre's bath essentials were specially
concocted by perfumer Gemma Suzara. Whilst at the resort, every post-
swimming shower will be graced with a bar of castile soap with a touch
of rosemary and mint, plus raw oats as an exfoliant. Alegre's PR,
April Tudtud Ramos, wrote in a press release that, "The shampoo has
pure ion-free water, coconut oil base foaming agent, sea salt, wheat
protein, fruit base citric acid, plant preservatives, moringa seed
extract (known as Malungay) and a natural hair protector against
environmental stress and pollution with UV protection. The
conditioner is the same with the shampoo without the coconut oil base
foaming agent but with an extra virgin coconut oil instead.
The bathroom gel has the same ingredients as the shampoo without the
moringa seed extract but with an added amount of coconut oil to
moisturize the skin. For the bath salt, ingredients include salt,
coconut oil scented with Mimosa and the body scrub scented with
Vanilla Oil. These ingredients are environment friendly as they
biodegrade in the water and/or soil. Perfumer Gemma Suzara is an
activist for Peace and Non Violence. She works contemporaneously with
many others all over the planet to conquer all forms of violence
consisting of the respect and care for the environment we live in for
both human and natural. She studied Natural Perfumery and
conceptualized a business that gives her an opportunity to apply her
vast knowledge of fragrances." Everything from soap to gels and bath
salts use natural ingredients and are kept in specially designed
ceramic bottles. This environmentally conscious approach to
housekeeping is another notch on the charms of Alegre.
DINNER AT TALISAY BEACH
The Amihan was blowing in like it does every evening according to Mr,
Kahler, bringing in some light drizzling, yet this teeny detail wasn't
going to hamper dinner out on Talisay beach, so named because of the
Talisay trees decking the shoreline. White dinner plates, formal
silverware, and red napkins adorned a long table illuminated by
lamplights. It was a moonlit night and if this were a dinner for two,
it would have been utterly utterly romantic.
Chef Martin Przewodnik had "slaved" all day to make us (media men) a
special dinner. First, an introduction is in order. Chef Przewodnik
has lived in the Philippines for seventeen years (and counting). With
a wife and three kids, he has been with the Pathfinder Holdings group
(PHPI), having previously been with the Cebu Plaza Hotel. His being a
German national doesn't stop him from experimenting with local
ingredients---voraciously, I might add, that at one point in the 6-
course dinner, we food writers wondered if we were ingesting some
fancily prepared grass growing on the gardens around our cabanas. The
plant species in question was osiman, reincarnated as fritters for
that particular plate, sweated out between seared peppery duck breasts
and proved divine with the caramelized onions and ube mash. The
grainy ube mash provided contrast to the duck meat's lingering peppery
finish. Downed with sparkling white and the buttery notes manifest
just at the back of the tongue. Later quizzed about the sequence of
his entrees, Chef Przewodnik explained that the sea bass would've made
a stronger impression if served before the duck. And he was right,
the sea bass was the winner of winners on that table as it was
beautiful with the sharply orang-ey banana blossom and coconut rice.
It was no simple coconut rice either. The rice was cooked inside the
husk and steeped---completely---in its water. To reveal its precious
insides, Chef Przewodnik brandished a short sword and cracked the nuts
open one by one. Talk about drama. Every bite was a sticky sweet
velvety sensation, then followed by a sip of citrusy Monkey Bay to
cleanse the palate for the next sinful mouthful. It's no wonder the
restaurants overseen by Chef Przewodnik have the stamp of approval
from the Chaine des Rotisseurs.
THE MENU
Green jackfruit mousseline and rock lobster spring roll served with
Balsamic reduction
Truffle and Boletus essence
Grilled duck breast with tisa lemon grass sauce on ube puree and
osiman leaves
Green mango granita with coconut punch
Calamansi-scented Chilean sea bass on spicy banana blossom served with
coconut rice and orange jasmine sauce
Red wine and Bailey ice cream in chocolate syrup
Tea or coffee
THE WINE LIST
Pol Clement Brut
Blanc de Blanc, Vin mousseaux
or Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
2006 Bernkasteler Lay
Riesling, Kabinett
Weingul Dr. Loosen
Cognac/Liqueurs

Critic's Log: Maya Taqueria and Tequila Lounge

Word Count:  1265 

One enters Maya expecting to tread on the presumably familiar ground of Mexican cuisine, expecting the usual nachos melting all over with commercial cheddar.  They have a tequila bar and you think, Oh yeah, that one I know very well; referencing doggone collegiate inebriety and the ubiquitous Cuervo.  

The world of microwave burritos and cheddar-morphed nachos is what we familiarly call Mexican food around these parts. Sombreros, ponchos, loud music and all things garish usually make for stereotypical backdrops but Maya is proving to be quite the opposite of these pre-conceived notions. 

A pair of massive hand-carved wooden doors makes a statement entrance into Maya Taqueria and Tequila Lounge, making one feel as if stepping unto hallowed ground. The religious theme carries on through intricately decorated antique plaques of Catholic deities adorning the wall adjacent to the restrooms. Why Catholic?  Because they too were colonized by the cross-bearing Spanish, eventually linking Mexico and Manila in their transatlantic trade route.  The floor tiles are cinnabar-red, as in the Mayan practice and where one expects to find white stucco carved with the faces of ancients and glyphs, are gray slate on walls. Various masks liven up the ground floor bar, all from Mexico, says PR Kaye Luym, as were the ancient candle holders in recessed shelves decorating the lounge upstairs and the gigantic mardi gras mask on the stairway wall. Pops of color emanate from the blown glass lighting ornaments from the ground floor window sills, turning up the wooden glow of the simply clad tables. 

Seating is a tactile experience as the chairs are upholstered in smooth cozy mocha-brown suede, a bonus for sure after a margarita or two when all senses are heightened. It makes for an elegant and sexy ambience at the lounge. In keeping with the rustic unfinished style so commonly associated with Mexico, Mactan-made wrought iron grillwork painted black make low-profile embellishments to just about everything from the hanging chandeliers flanking the carved entrance door to a divider between the bar and the cozy lounge, to ceiling ventilation grills. It not only echoes the mildly religious undertone of the interiors (the candle holders, the plaques) but also stresses the historical fact that Mexico shares a politico-religious affiliation with the Philippines---and Cebu, being the first city of the conquistadores. From this standpoint, the Hyatts make their rationale behind creating a restaurant like Maya in a slower-paced city like Cebu.

Mood lighting adds to the luxurious feel of the lounge---no need to expound on what they do to our pupils and how that equates to romance---while framing the ninety plus bottles of amber tequila at the second-floor bar. A whiff of any of those potions of 100-percent de agave proved almost opium-like: complex, woody yet heady, with promises of smooth ingestion and the grand possibility of uninhibited interpersonal behavior. A bottle will set you back several thousands and the bottles alone make quite the centrepiece as well since each came with distinct styling, from modern crystalline to colored glass to glazed ceramic.

Maya's getting snaps from the smart set for its margaritas and mojitos both of which they thankfully didn't overdo with sugar syrup. A portion of the glass lips were covered in crushed salt and the organically grown mint leaves were sufficiently muddled that they clouded the mellow yellow of the mojito. 45 mL of tequila per glass will scarcely make any lady lose her inhibitions, so this one gets my recommendation for best post-workday tipple. Stick to 2 glasses and you're still good to drive back home. For more SJP (and Sex and the City) appeal, there's the margarita, the most popular of which is the regular concoction sans the curaçao-induced colors.  The men can be more macho about it and maybe knock back tequila shots although dates can be sure their boys won't get serious with the guzzling as it's going to cost them a few grand.  A few San Mig lights should do just as fine.

We Filipinos just can't do without our pica-pica while drinking and this is where the nachos and burritos come in. One thing to understand about Maya Taqueria: it's gourmet-prepared plebeian fare in a luxe dining setting. There's no other way to enjoy a hand-ground soft-shell taco with REAL tomato salsa and slow-roasted organic pork than to roll it all up with your fingers and bite off a piece. To eat this reverently prepared food with a knife and fork, I daresay, is disrespecting the gustatory experience.  Part of its appeal is the feel of the grain on your fingertips as you roll the taco, the commotion of aromas wafting up your nose as you prepare them, the puckering of your lips as you bite; all integral to the enjoyment of the dish which you'll never experience were you to eat it with kubiertos.

SALSA ROJA

Tomato salsa with coriander, kalamansi, and chilis served with homemade masa chips

For a commoner's dish like the salsa roja (PhP150), there was a remarkable attention to detail, what with chips made from organic sources and the salsa a heavenly macedoine mix of diced tomato, cilantro, and chilis. And no, they didn't scoop this out of a can, which would be a shame to do when the masa chips are homemade and made fresh daily.  

The menu opens to a full-page introduction:

"Mexican cuisine that is actually eaten and enjoyed regionally in Mexico, albeit filtered through our whimsical lens.  By embracing both Mexican tradition and local sensibility, we offer a creatively classic cuisine that marries well-known Mexican street food from the street stalls of Mexico City and family dishes from the coast of the Mayan Riviera and the inventiveness of the Hispanic community of Los Angeles; we aim to showcase the passion of utilizing the freshest of the fresh to create an original mix of rich flavor in each signature dish."

CEVICHE DE CAMARON

Shrimp ceviche in lime and coriander with horseradish gazpacho and masa chips (PhP235).  Mexican fare isn't strange to the Cebuano palate as ingredients are all available locally and were in fact farmed in the outskirts of the city.  The seafood we can relate to like in this ceviche preparation.  Corn is a historical staple as well.  We often hear our elders tell stories about polenta-like staples accompanying their viands.  In fact, some of us still have elders who prefer corn to rice!  The camaron livens up with the tang of tomato sauce and the cilantro---a combination prevalent in the dishes served us that day.

    

TACOS/CARNITAS

Six-hour roasted organic pork shoulder with cumin, coriander, and chilis served with fresh tortillas (PhP 455).

COSTILLAS EN SALSA CHIPOTLE

Slow-cooked baby back ribs with smoky chipotle bbq and escabeche (PhP 395).  A winner hands down:  Perfect for the hungry Jack with carnivorous leanings.  You won't have to struggle to get the meat off as it slides of the bone with light twist of the fork and is mouthwatering with a spritz of lemoncito (calamansi).

CHURROS CON CHOCOLATE (PhP 145)

Wrap up the meal with cinnamon-dusted churros dipped in thick tsokolate sauce. 

Executive Chef Aimee Tran (2009-present)

Backgrounder on Chef Aimee:  http://www.chefdb.com/nm/10711/

Le Cordon Bleu, California School of Culinary Arts, Pasadena (United States)

Contact details:

MAYA TAQUERIA + TEQUILA LOUNGE

Address:  Crossroads Banilad, Cebu City, PH

Telephone no.:  (032) 238.9552

URL:  http://www.mayacebu.com/

Sources:  

Chefdb.com

http://www.mayacebu.com/

Welcome the latest super chic watering hole for the well-heeled Cebuano.

Maya's flock favor the weekends for kicking up their heels and despite a full range of dishes on offer, the place is more popular for its extensive selection of 100% de agave tequila than as a dining spot.

Critic's Log: Cheon San, Imperial Palace’s Chinese-cuisine restaurant

Word Count:  791

Named after the contiguous mountain peaks of China, Cheon San serves just as wide a variety of Korean-Chinese dishes, featuring an a la carte menu, set menus, and fine dimsum prepared by a chef with serious serious Chinese cuisine credentials:  Chef Kenny Yong Tze Hin.  Here he blends his modern Cantonese dishes with touches of Korean, like the four-part appetizer reminiscent of kimchi. 

A starter of yellow-gold chrysanthemum tea was served first which we later realized was the key to lasting through the epic affair of fine Chinese dining.

The dimsum platter did not sound ominous at all when it was introduced.  We were to sample a piece or two each of the fist-sized portions of various dimsum preparations like fried bean curd wrapped in wonton wrapper, siomai with crab roe, gorgeously delicate steamed hakaw, and deep-fried taro puff. Then came the deep-fried prawn with almond flakes which gave it different levels of crunch and flavor.  I could feel all the bean bean curd and fried wonton settling in my stomach and I thought, I was going to have to skip dinner that night and breakfast the next day.

Perhaps now the Korean dishes will be served, but no, the golden crispy Peking Duck was wheeled in, carved and rolled in wrappers with slivers of cucumber, shallots, with a caramel brown sauce that lingered after each bite.  The duck, we later found, was flown in from Beijing just for the occasion. 

The more familiar King Prawns (with chili sauce garnished with chopped shallots) made its appearance.   It is among Chef Kenny's more popular preparations and smacks of the heavier-sauced predilections of South to Southwestern Chinese cooking.  Beautiful as always, especially when followed by another seafood dish with a contrasting texture: silky soft baked catfish, again with a sweet burnt caramel finish edged with tangy mayonnaise.  Most unfortunately, as the servers introduced the dish, they refrained from mentioning the cholesterol and calorie counts of each serving, so we turned to our tea cups and downed some more chrysanthemum tea and magically felt we could ingest more of this rich indulgent food.  The Peking Duck was later served with a nice chili sauce and champignon mushrooms.  This wasn't enough, says Chef Kenny, referring to the numbers rule in Chinese food service.  The number of dishes served must never be odd and there we were, stuffed tea-infused gluttons, still at dish number eight (not counting the chili-sauced duck).   

The crowd favorite came next---soft-shell crab deep-fried in egg yolk. The men ate it along with its vibrantly orange shell adding to the crunch (as well as the oiliness), the taste of briny sea and the sandy texture of crab roe.  As a fitting cleanser to the crab dish, freshly made egg-noodles in black-bean sauce came next. I thought of it as akin to the French onion soup judging from the amount of caramelized onions in it, but Chinese.  It tasted nothing like the French's.  This was thick and saucy, with the noodle's fresh starch contributing to the soup's texture.  It wasn't salty but it was full-flavored, truly something I would crave on a rainy day.  There was one other soup dish served earlier on---like a birds' nest soup with the feathery egg-whites in a viscous sauce but laden with an interminable list of chopped vegetables.  If I were on sick bay, that soup would have nourished me back to health.  Unfortunately, it wasn't welcomed with much enthusiasm by the other food writers, as it did taste more grassy than the usual gamey soups we're more accustomed to (chicken or beef soup). Another of the table's favorites were the taro puffs and of course, the dessert of homemade ice cream and various pudding-like sweets.  Thankfully, we had tea to wash all this down with. A wide variety of liquor and spirits were also available.  

The menu of Cheon San offers what strikes me as a heavily Chinese-style set of dishes rather than the Korean-Chinese promised by the staff.  They claim that this is the same cuisine served at the Cheon San Restaurant at  Seoul's Imperial Palace.  

Private rooms are available at Cheon San, each of the 8 posh dining areas can seat up to 16 persons and are named after the major cities of China.  Cheon San  is open for lunch  from 12NN to 230PM and for dinner, from 6PM to 10PM.

Grand opening: Golden Cowrie, Marina Mall

New menu includes the appetizing mango dilis with honey which was impossibly good with the crispy pata and barbecue. Traditional Bicolano cuisine was introduced into the existing menu of Golden Cowrie.

To die for was the fish soup cooked with coconut water and coconut meat. Traditional Bicol Express is also now available.

The Gustavian

There's one thing they got right in The Gustavian: Scandinavians know how to set a good table; although Scandinavian cooking prowess isn't exactly elevated to celebrity levels, largely due to their perception of their cuisine in humble terms. That is, pure and simple cooking. We have them to thank for cured salmon, whale steaks, the real "hamburger," and herring salad. Not that we'll dine from trenchers like the Vikings did, but one is certainly made aware of a distant European past.

That's exactly what we find at The Gustavian---or at any of their branches across Cebu City---great food and a fabulous space to dine in.

Chef Dietmar's to-die-for chocolate pudding

The cheerful, comfortable Euro-decor sets a cozy stage for its cuisine---sheer indulgence in the flavor department. Case in point, Chef Dietmar Dietrich's unforgettable chocolate pudding with chili-caramel sauce. One bite and words will fail you.

Photo by Benjie Ordoñez

Lunch at Uno

Uno's lunch buffet never fails to impress when it comes to variety. Small wonder the space was named after a number. Getting lost among the buffet sections might be a challenge second only to locating your table and the inevitable indecision about which food item to pile on your plate first.

Midnight madness: near-disaster chocolate cake

I didn't have all the ingredients to begin with but I was compelled to give it a try. It must be an off-timed compulsion from having seen too many of Rachelle Allen's baking show at Discovery Travel and Living.

So I baked even if I didn't have baking soda to go with the baking powder. What resulted was a dense-like cake that went flat in some portions. True to Hershey's word, the chocolate hits the spot. It's deep dark and totally satisfies the craving. I had a good half of once cake before I willed myself to stop.

While I ate, I pondered on whether to add frosting to it. As of last night I managed to stave off the saccharine-devils in my head, but my mind may yet change because of expected guests on Sunday.
I have a feeling they'll expect the icing. I think it's quite nice and healthy like this.

Big plus: the entire house smelled of heavenly chocolate while I baked!

Dr. Franks Sausages: Taste Test Continued

Chicken Hungarian + Coldslaw
coleslaw + cheese + mayo

- Sausage was overpowered by the amount of topping
- Note to Self: Ask for half the amount next time
- Pale slaw with a smattering of orange from julienned carrots
- Not as visually attractive as the rest of the sandwiches; colors were too muted and looked bland when the flavor profile was the exact opposite
- Doesn't have the over-processed look to it---a good quality
- Very appetizing; halfway thru the sandwich and you know you don't want to stop chomping through it
- Nice tang, crunchy from cabbage, creamy from the mayonnaise, tartness takes you through the entire sandwich that you don't get bored with the flavor

HUNGARIAN SAUSAGES. In Hungary, true "csaba" sausage, particularly in rural regions, is a homemade product. A number of factors influence the character of this sausage: for example, the breed and age of the pork, the quality and quantity of the paprika used, the proportion of ingredients, the method of smoking, storage methods etc. In the end, you'll find as many variations as there are sausage makers. However, there are certain unchanging principles: the sausage must be seasoned with paprika and must be made exclusively with pork. It is neither hard nor soft. The meat is juicy, the flavor spicy and slightly smoked. Its keeping time is relatively long. There is even a sausage festival held at Békéscsaba.

This sausage is heavy on garlic and paprika (spicy).

Ingredients

• 7 kg of pork, various cuts
• 3 kg garlic
• 120 g mild paprikA
• 100 g hot paprika
• 10 g whole cumin seed and 10 g ground cumin
• 200 g salt

From http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/products/charcuterie/hungarian-sausage/




Schublig + German Cut*
sauerkraut + garlic mustard + sweet pepper + relish + mayo












- Pickled pale pink cabbage; mustard down under, mayo, a hint of pimiento. It's peppery and zingy and fresh. That's really good topping right there. People shouldn't be put off by the name or the pale pink of the pickles although I agree that the sandwich is very suggestive and quite aptly reflects the sense of humor of its creator.

* A type of circumcision procedure and the only one where the incision is made horizontally. Germany is not a country known for its circumcised males but their World War II soldiers wore helmets that closely resemble the end-product of this type of circumsion.

See links on circumcision:
Howie Severino's SIDETRIP features a trip to Philippines' history of circumcision and some smart reactionaries. Completely unrelated to the sandwich of course but well worth a read.
http://blogs.gmanews.tv/sidetrip/blog/index.php?/archives/213-Summertime-meditations-on-penile-foreskin.html





Kielbasa + Coronary Special
bacon + shiitake + honey mustard + onion + mayo + garlic + pickles

- Looks a lot like the LBM topping except it has a ribbon of yellow mustard;
- Inside are shredded white onions
- Nice
- Has a creamy burnt caramel flavor to the back of the tongue thanks to the onions (I think)---versus the coldslaw whose tartness takes you through the entire sandwich and makes it perfect as an appetizer to a late night meal---and then, the combination of tartness plus the distinctive peppery pimiento taste takes you through the GermanCut while the tart pickling epitomizes the Coldslaw. The Coronary Special is different too. In the German Cut there's an underlying mustard flavor that makes it so beautiful as it makes the sausage take center stage on the palate.
- Is there shiitake in there? It might be the mushrooms contributing to the coffee-caramel-like taste to it. It's a beautiful sandwich too.

KIELBASA is the Polish word for sausage. The word has become a commonly used North American term for Eastern European styles of sausage, including Ukrainian sausage, which is called kovbasa or kubasa. (Wikipedia)

• 14 feet hog casings, rinsed three times
• 4 pounds boneless, well-marbled pork shoulder, cut according to your grinder's instructions
• 1/2 cup cold water
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed in press
• 4 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 1 teaspoon marjoram

Schublig + Lots of Bacon and Mushroom (LBM)
bacon + button mushrooms + shiitake + cheese + garlic mustard

- My least favorite as it had the most predictable flavor profile;
- It's the sandwich you order when you're having a DUH day and you want something familiar to eat---comfort food---you don't want your mind, your taste buds, and your imagination challenged. This isn't to say it's a bad sandwich, Dr. Ted made up for it by loading up on extra mushrooms and extra bacon.
- I predict this topping makes the popularity vote because of its approachability and familiarity.

SCHUBLIG is another traditional Swiss sausage. It's made with select cuts of beef and pork, mixed with our own special blend of spices, non-fat dried milk, and onions, fine ground, and lightly smoked to perfection. Another pre-cooked sausage, it's great on the grill, warmed through, or even eaten cold!

Full-bodied, bursting with flavor, and is a European favorite. From http://www.ruefsmeatmarket.com/sausages.htm


Note:
- Each sandwich has a flavor personality.
- All the sandwiches go down really well with lemonade. Get a large one.

Juice, anyone?

Healthy fruit beverages are creatively at full tilt at Amuma Spa's Juice Bar. Annexed to the gym, massage parlour specializing in Filipino hilot, and a gorgeous pool perfect for swimming laps, the breezy juice bar is the perfect go-to for light nosh. The Amuma Spa is part of Maribago Bluewater's most recent make over. I can't wait to see all the improvements they've made.

My current fave drink is the fragrant lemongrass juice served cold, of course. It's so refreshing on a hot day---and it's always hot in Mactan Island!

Here's a portion of what I wrote for a glossy about the health benefits of this ubiquitous grass:

We don’t really need to look too far beyond our borders to find things that are medically good for us. The ink on the issue hasn’t dried yet but in Israel, they’ve reportedly found that lemongrass tea can be good for cancer patients because of the citral found in them. Researchers found that the substance induces cell death only in cancer cells. Now it’s uncommon for us to drink the stuff alone although we use lemongrass a lot in our cooking. Citral isn’t strictly unique in lemongrass but is endemic to lemon-scented herbs.

Critic's Log_Maribago Bluewater

The newly renovated Bluewater in Maribago, Mactan, exudes a new zen, catalyzed by the ubiquitous ponds and waterfalls now dotting the resort's grounds. It's played up its atmosphere of a cozy escape from citylife and the stress that comes with it by amping up their spa services, particularly with the Amuma Spa, which I've now come to experience. An airy Juice Bar complements their wellness offering while its menu showcases the island's many fruits in season served in juicy bites or in heavenly fresh and healthy concoctions. The gym is conveniently located just right behind the bar, so you don't have long to walk before powering up.

I will be treated to their Water Shiatsu this afternoon and lugged along a bathing suit just in case the wet element comes to effect.

When I come to Maribago Bluewater, I always enjoy the waiting moments---few to come by especially because of their PR, Ruben's, superbly solicitous attentions. I sit at their waiting lounge now, usually an awkward time at any other resort or hotel because at any moment the wait staff will come over to demand what the hell you're doing sitting at their tables, yet here I oddly feel compelled to jot my thoughts down, and this is how this piece came to be.



Ruben mentioned at a Barrio Fiesta dinner some nights ago that the resort is in the midst of a full-scale renovation in time for their anniversary---moved from July to December this year---in hopes of thwarting the gobal economic downturn. Like most Mactan resorts, Bluewater is largely dependent on South Asian guests who come to enjoy Cebu's eternally summer weather (the heat is up at 30-degrees Celsius at least even in our so-called rainy season). This makes the renovation perfectly timed. The recession too has made certain resources available as locally based foreign furniture companies scramble to sell their current stock where before, those same pieces would have to have been purchased in Singapore or Germany, they were instead shipped from the Mactan factory to the resort.



I love the ambience here. From the lobby, you immediately feel your blood pressure winding down. Maybe it's the sound of water falling, always a boon for my constantly wired system. I meant to buy one for my home but the thought of maintenance deters me.

Weeping bamboos camp in mini groves around Amuma's own swimming pool, again accented with a rippling waterfall flowing out from one of two massage kiosks. The main kiosk is called the Hilot Pavilion Massage where their services range from the Amuma Hilot, Traditional Filipino hilot, Swedish massage, Namikoshi Shiatsu, Thai Foot Massage, and the Travel Revive.

The Amuma Spa is ensconced in a different wing from the main resort. Unless one is a roomed guest in that wing, it's unlikely you'll find the usual beach revellers here. A gorgeously ergonomic chaise loung by Dedon graces the gravel path by the pool and makes for the penultimate lounging experience---even when enjoyed while the press conference convenes.

Critic's Log_Maribago Bluewater

The newly renovated Bluewater in Maribago, Mactan, exudes a new zen, catalyzed by the ubiquitous ponds and waterfalls now dotting the resort's grounds. It's played up its atmosphere of a cozy escape from citylife and the stress that comes with it by amping up their spa services, particularly with the Amuma Spa, which I've now come to experience. An airy Juice Bar complements their wellness offering while its menu showcases the island's many fruits in season served in juicy bites or in heavenly fresh and healthy concoctions. The gym is conveniently located just right behind the bar, so you don't have long to walk before powering up.

I will be treated to their Water Shiatsu this afternoon and lugged along a bathing suit just in case the wet element comes to effect.

When I come to Maribago Bluewater, I always enjoy the waiting moments---few to come by especially because of their PR, Ruben's, superbly solicitous attentions. I sit at their waiting lounge now, usually an awkward time at any other resort or hotel because at any moment the wait staff will come over to demand what the hell you're doing sitting at their tables, yet here I oddly feel compelled to jot my thoughts down, and this is how this piece came to be.



Ruben mentioned at a Barrio Fiesta dinner some nights ago that the resort is in the midst of a full-scale renovation in time for their anniversary---moved from July to December this year---in hopes of thwarting the gobal economic downturn. Like most Mactan resorts, Bluewater is largely dependent on South Asian guests who come to enjoy Cebu's eternally summer weather (the heat is up at 30-degrees Celsius at least even in our so-called rainy season). This makes the renovation perfectly timed. The recession too has made certain resources available as locally based foreign furniture companies scramble to sell their current stock where before, those same pieces would have to have been purchased in Singapore or Germany, they were instead shipped from the Mactan factory to the resort.



I love the ambience here. From the lobby, you immediately feel your blood pressure winding down. Maybe it's the sound of water falling, always a boon for my constantly wired system. I meant to buy one for my home but the thought of maintenance deters me.

Weeping bamboos camp in mini groves around Amuma's own swimming pool, again accented with a rippling waterfall flowing out from one of two massage kiosks. The main kiosk is called the Hilot Pavilion Massage where their services range from the Amuma Hilot, Traditional Filipino ilot, Swedish massage, Namikoshi Shiatsu, Thai Foot Massage, and the Travel Revive.

The Amuma Spa is ensconced in a different wing from the main resort. Unless one is a roomed guest in that wing, it's unlikely you'll find the usual beach revellers here. A gorgeously ergonomic chaise loung by Dedon graces the gravel path by the pool and makes for the penultimate lounging experience---even when enjoyed while the press conference convenes.

--------------------

The Amuma Hilot begins with a shower in brine water with in-house lemongrass infused shampoo and conditioner. Stalks of lemongrass perfume the locker room too, so it's hard to miss the point. You're led to a verandah overlooking the Hilot Pavilion and swimming pool where a warm tub of salted and essential-oil infused water awaits your tingling toes. The attendant gives you a quick rub. It's really more for cleansing your feet than a foot scrub. Towelled off, you proceed to the massage room where they begin the hilot ritual of traditional incense---this time, cleansing for your psyche. It tells your mind, "Time to relax."

Staring at floating frangipani has never been so relaxing. Coconut oil permeates the air as my masseuse kneads my knotted back and nape muscles. I cannot begin to describe how the tensions drain away. My inner control freak frantically tries to remember all the details. I'm to write about this, remember? But the hedonist in me tartly responds, "How will you relate the experience if you haven't enjoyed it to the hilt?" And so I mellow down and let the Hilot work its magic.

Dr. Franks Sausages: Tokyo 'Chil on Schublig

Dr. Franks Sausages may have opened only in March 15th this year, but they've got the food down pat, serving nothing but the freshest (and I have this on very good authority) sausage sandwiches this side of the province. It's a family business for now---the baby of the Lee's---who watch over their first-born business venture like a hawk.

I sampled their Schublig topped with Tokyo 'Chil as recommended by Mrs. Adrienne Lee (It's her latest favorite). It was stupendously good. You might, at first, cringe at the combination of traditional Swiss sausage topped with onions and radish-carrot pickled in brine, garnished with hair-thin nori strips and a thoughtfully concocted wasabi sauce. Now, if you're an avid Japanese food lover, you're likely to demand massive amounts of wasabi but what Dr. Ted Lee did to his special Tokyo Chil was keep the stinging at 2-minutes max, so it actually doesn't overpower the Schublig or any other component of the sandwich. At first bite, there's the hit of wasabi, the sweet ocean taste of nori, then more succulent sweetness from the radish-carrot pickles. This initial onslaught dies down and the smoky flavor of the beef-pork sausage comes thru. Even lovelier is the homemade wheat bread. It's moist and substantial and most importantly, it's not sweetened (unlike some whole wheat breads sold in the market).

Wheat bread isn't the only ingredient Dr. Lee makes himself after doctor-ing hours. He makes the pickles too and replenishes his stock as needed. What follows is a recipe of a similar pickle that I found online. This isn't Dr. Lee's recipe but it gives me a flavor profile.

Daikon and Carrot Pickle
from http://www.vietworldkitchen.com/blog/2009/05/daikon-and-carrot-pickle-recipe-do-chua.html

Try this daikon and carrot pickle recipe once and then tweak the recipe to your liking. Variations of the include adding tangy-sweet-pungent pickled shallots (cu kieu) to the mixture, as well as making heavier on the carrot side than the daikon side. I prefer to keep a higher ratio (say 2:1) of daikon to carrot as I like the mild bite of daikon radish. I like a tangy-sweet flavor whereas you can alter the ratio of sugar to vinegar to make the brine sweeter, and hence affect the pickle’s flavor.

Makes about 3 cups

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
1 pound daikons, each no larger than 2 inches in diameter, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups distilled white vinegar
1 cup lukewarm water

1. Place the carrot and daikons in a bowl and sprinkle with the salt and 2 teaspoons of the sugar. Use your hands to knead the vegetables for about 3 minutes, expelling the water from them. They will soften and liquid will pool at the bottom of the bowl. Stop kneading when you can bend a piece of daikon so that the ends touch but the daikon does not break. The vegetables should have lost about one-fourth of their volume. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water, then press gently to expel extra water. Return the vegetables to the bowl if you plan to eat them soon, or transfer them to a 1-quart jar for longer storage.

2. To make the brine, in a bowl, combine the 1/2 cup sugar, the vinegar, and the water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the vegetables. The brine should cover the vegetables. Let the vegetables marinate in the brine for at least 1 hour before eating. They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. Beyond that point, they get tired.

Recipe from: Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors (2006, Ten Speed Press)

Tokyo 'Chil was named after one of the business' partners. The rest of the menu (which Adrienne pens herself with liquid chalk) sport the same sassy names and all of them with a medical vibe. This makes not too fine a point on the owner of the business being a doctor by profession, but more importantly, it stresses their health-food image. The weight conscious will have a ball eating here, as they can request half-a-sandwich. I for one will go for the half portions, not because I'm dieting, but because I'm in a hurry to try all the incarnations of six sausage types times ten toppings! 6 x 10 = 60! I've tried one sandwich for now and I'm looking forward to mix-and-matching. Although it doesn't say on Adrienne's menu board, Dr. Franks can make any sandwich combination you request, so if you'd like a simple mustard and mayo, that's fine too. Others have even gone for sausages on a stick.

For now we're forced to drive to JY Square in Lahug, Cebu City, for one of these sandwiches. The stall is located at the mall's entrance C. From the Gorordo-side gate (McDonald's), it's straight up to JY's grocery entrance on the left side. If you're coming up from basement parking like I did, the lift will drop you off beside Watson's. Take a left beyond the escalators and you can't miss the red stall. Better yet, follow the scent trail. These sausages are so good, when they're grilling they bring out the hound in you.

Baked Macaroni and Cheese

For my brother-in-law's birthday, I baked my first macaroni and cheese as preferred by my sister, his wife. The original plan was to make the macaroni with tomato meat sauce but we went for the former as it was something new.

The recipe was from AllRecipes.com as usual and I must say that it turned out OK. I jazzed up the bechamel with clove-studded onions and avoided making it too savory for my sister by not simmering the sauce too long. I also made the mistake of adding the beaten eggs (I used two instead of one) early and the sauce thickened too quickly.

Unfortunately, this is one dish I cannot eat a lot of in one sitting as the flavor is consistently the same throughout. I find it doesn't have enough depth to keep me interested in a slice bigger than 2" x 2". So the entire pan stayed at my sister's where I hope they devoured it by now. The cooking size was pretty generous by my standards and I would not have been able to finish it on my own.

As for the original baked mac with tomato-meat sauce, I used the ingredients for pasta sauce and it's now chilling nicely in my fridge. This one I'm not sharing.

Salmon with Dill

I tried out this recipe from AllRecipes.com: Salmon with Dill.

It was simple enough and I happened to have everything in the fridge. It was the perfect choice for a short shrift dinner, but what a dynamite it turned out to be! I didn't follow the ingredients to the letter, however, preferring to use fresh minced red onion instead of powdered and dill seed instead of dill weed.

My oven is small---more like a toaster but roomier, so I had to use a relatively small baking dish. As a result, the salmon fillets (2 of them) had to rise up on the sides a bit and the spice rub gathered on the parts that lay flat. No surprise that the concentration of flavor was in the midsection of the fillets.

Still a good dinner. Here I thought I was bored with salmon, then came this recipe and I'm really into it again.